The European Furexchange
My world of furs and more....
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The European Furexchange
My world of furs and more.... |
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Please find interesting information about topics such as:
Reasons for wearing fur
How to choose your fur
Fur description
Give your furs a long life
Fur care
All contributions were made by fellow furlovers. Thank you very much, we really appreciate it. Your ideas or suggestions are always welcome. Please send your textes to mail@furexchange.eu
Why to wear real fur...
(By Stellabeli)
WARMTH
Fur is nature's wonderful response to winter. And nothing is warmer. As a
natural material, fur allows the body to breathe and is isothermal, keeping you
comfortable and cozy, no matter the weather.
COMFORT
Soft, sensual and enveloping, nothing compares with the feeling of wearing fur.
And with today's new techniques, furs have never been more versatile or
lightweight. In fact many can be worn year-round, rather then just in cold
seasons or climates.
TIMELESSNESS
Fur never goes out of style and now its seductive beauty has never had a
stronger grasp on the fashion imagination. One only has to look at the hundreds
of international designers who showcase fur in their collections in increasingly
creative ways.
VERSATILITY
The cliché of fur on formal occasions has long been put to rest. Fur now can be
worn everywhere. With jeans and ball gowns. Warm on a winter night, enchanting
on a summer dress. There is only one rule and that is: create your own style!
DURABILITY
Despite its luxurious look and feel, fur is a natural fiber, and hence naturally
durable. Because fur is resilient and lasting, it can be recycled, updated and
re-styled, time and time again. Take care of your fur and your investment will
bring you many years of pleasure.
ECO-LOGICAL
The fur trade is government regulated to ensure that endangered species are
never used. Fur is an excellent example of ''sustainable use of renewable
resources'', a principle promoted by the World Wildlife Fund and other
environmental protection organizations.
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By Stellabeli
1. Warmth Fur is nature's most beautiful answer to Winter. Warmth is the number one reason to own a fur coat, according to a recent poll of fur buyers.
2. fashion Modern and either casual or elegant, fur is always in style. More than 150 top international designers are now using fur in their collections.
3. long lasting Fur is a naturally durable fiber that lasts for many, many years.
4. re-styleable As styles change, your fur can be updated and re-styled to reflect the latest fashions time and time aqain.
5. environmentally friendly A fine natural product, fur is bio-deqradable and a renewable resource.
6. versatile Fur can be worn for all occasions. Whether with jeans or an evening gown, wearing fur will make you look and feel terrific! With lighter weight furs and fur accessories, furs are now a three-season fashion.
7. supporting livelihoods and cultures When you buy fur, you support thousands of people living on the land - people who have a direct interest in protecting vital wildlife habitat. The fur trade is a proud North American heritage.
8. responsible conservation Furs used in the trade are abundant. Strict government controls ensure that NO endangered species are ever used.
9. comfort Soft, sensual, cozy and lightweight—nothing equals the feeling of wearing fur.
10. fur is your choice The fur trade is a responsible, well regulated industry. You can feel proud of your choice to wear natural fur.
Fur: The Luxurious Necessity
Fur has become an essential element in today's wardrobe. You will find it in every major fashion magazine... luxurious, lean sable coats, elegant fur-trimmed suits, radiant fox stoles, casual mink sweatshirts and putlovers, short chic fur jackets-even fur trims on spring dresses! More designers than ever before are including fur in their collections.
Once you've decided to add fur to your wardrobe, how do you go about selecting just the right one? After all, choosing a fur is very different from choosing a new purse or a pair of shoes. Each fur is individually hand-crafted and uniquely designed by highly skilled craftsmen. This booklet is designed to provide clear information to guide you in finding and caring for the perfect fur for you.
What to look for
With today's wide variety of fur fashion, your choices are endless. So give some thought to your purchase: How will you wear your fur? Will you spend time in blue jeans and a funky knitted fur or a leather jacket lined in sheared beaver? Will you dress for an elegant night on the town in a classic mink coat? Or will a touch of fur add sophistication to your work wardrobe, with, for example, an understated fur collar on a classic wool suit? Once you decide which fur best fits your lifestyle, it's time to start looking.
Where to look
A great place to start is at your local fur salon. Feel free to browse and ask questions. Your furrier is an expert who can introduce you to the world of fur.
Whatever type of fur you choose
Check to see that the pelts are lustrous, supple and well-matched.
Feel the fur carefully. There should be a dense, soft underfur that is evident to the touch under the glossy guard hairs, which should also be soft, never bristly.
Seams should be sewn tightly. Hems should fall straight.
Be sure to try the garment on to see if the weight is comfortable for you. You may be surprised at how lightweight many fur coats actually are.
When you try on a well-made fur, it should be well-balanced, falling evenly and comfortably from your shoulders.
There should be "give" to the leather side of the fur when horizontal tension is applied.
Different furs
Beaver Sheared: Soft, velvety texture, evenly sheared. Often dyed in new fashion colors. Very durable. Natural: Long, lustrous guard hairs over thick underfur.
Chinchilla: A short, dense, soft fur with lustrous slate blue quard hairs and dark underfur.
Coyote: A long-haired fur, often pale gray or tan in color, with thick, soft underfur. Very durable fur.
Ermine: Very silky white guard hairs and dense underfur.
Fisher : Silky guard hairs in brown to blackish tones and thick underfur. Very durable fur.
Fitch: Long guard hairs over light-colored underfur. Color ranges from pale ecru to orange tones, with black markings.
Fox: The widest range of natural colors of any fur except mink. Long, lustrous guard hairs with thick, soft underfur. Fox varieties include silver, cross, crystal, blue, red, gray and white. Can also be dyed in a wide variety of colors.
Lamb Broadtail: A natural flat moire pattern. Natural colors include brown, black and gray. Often dyed in more exotic colors. Mongolian: Very long, wavy, silky guard hairs. Its natural color is off-white, but is often dyed. Mouton: Pelts are sheared closely for a soft, thick, flat fur. Persian Lamb: From karakul sheep raised in Central Asia or Southwest Africa, fur features flat silky curls. Natural colors are black, brown and gray. Shearling: Natural lamb pelts with the leather side sueded or leatherized and worn on the outside with the fur on the inside.
Lynx Canadian Lynx: Displays creamy white tones with characteristic darker markings. Russian Lynx: The whitest and softest of this very long-haired fur with very subtle beige markings. The whiter the fur, the higher the value.
Marten American: Long silky guard hairs and dense underfur. Color ranges from blue-brown to dark brown. Baum: Softer, silkier and shinier than American marten. Stone: The finest marten has soft, thick guard hairs and a bluish-brown cast with pale underfur.
Mink: Soft and lightweight with lustrous guard hairs and dense, soft underfur. Primarily farm-raised, mink remains the most popular fur. Female pelts are smaller in size and have a softer, silkier feel than the larger male pelts. Mink can be dyed a wide range of colors and may be sheared for a sporty, casual look. Very durable fur.
Muskrat : Fur is full and thick with a black stripe and pale beige sides. Often sheared for a sporty, lightweight feel. New Jersey: Lighter in weight with contrasting colors. Northern: Strong, longer guard hairs and heavy, thick underfur. Often worked skin-on-skin. Southern: Flatter with little underfur, usually pale in color.
Nutria: Similar to beaver, it is often sheared for a sporty, more lightweight feel. Underfur is very soft and plush. A popular fur for linings and trims, it is frequently dyed in a variety of colors.
Opossum American: Long, silvery black-tipped guard hairs with thick underfur. Australian: Short, dense, plush-like fur, with colors ranging from yellow-gray to natural brown.
Rabbit: Generally medium length guard hairs in a variety of natural colors. Offer sheared or grooved. Not very durable, sheds easily.
Racoon: Long gray/black guard hairs with silvery tips over a woolly, dense underfur. Very durable fur. Finn raccoon: Long, thick tan guard hairs with black tips and dense underfur.
Sable: Long, luxurious guard hairs with dense underfur, yet very lightweight. Russian sable: Brown with a silver cast, it is the most expensive fur, especially when there is an abundance of silver hairs. Canadian golden sable: In amber tones, somewhat less expensive. Very durable.
Squirrel Short, soft guard hairs with a flatter, dense underfur. Very lightweight.
Tanuki : Also called Japanese raccoon with very long guard hairs and a full texture. Color is light amber brown with dark, distinctive markings.
Weasel: Similar look to mink, with short guard hairs and semi-dense underfur.
construction: a labor of love
Every fur represents weeks of specialized labor and fine hand craftsman ship. Furriers have specialized skills which often have been handed down from generation to generation. The creation of each fur requires meticulous workmanship. The following terms describe some of the elements involved:
brightener added A process which enhances the color of a fur.
dyeing Process of applying dye to create a new color, Dyeing is sometimes also used to correct any imperfections and to improve uniformity. Sometimes the pelt is bleached white before color is added.
guard hair Long, lustrous outer hair that protects the underfur.
knitted fur A new technique that produces a soft, comfortable, fur-in/fur-out look and feel.
leathering Insertion of ribbon, cloth or leather strips along with fur strips. May be done for fashion or to lighten the weight of the fur.
letting out Cutting the pelt into diagonal strips and resewing it to make the pelt longer and narrower. Sometimes referred to as dropping out. The effect is supple and smooth flowing.
mutation Natural furs of special colors that are produced by selective breeding.
plucking To emphasize the velvet underhair of the fur. All guard hairs are plucked before shearing.
Shearing Cutting fur to a short, uniform pile.
shearling Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside.
Skin-On-Skin Rectangular pelts are sewn together to create a box effect as an alternative to the letting out process.
tip-dyeing Sometimes called blending. Dye is applied only to the tips of guard hairs to produce more color uniformity.
underfur The underhair covered by guard hairs. This is the layer of fur that acts as insulation to provide warmth.
Svelte Pelts: keeping your fur in peak condition
Storage
Professional storage during the summer months is most important in maximizing the longevity of your fur. Home storage, using air conditioning or a cedar closet, will not protect your fur from drying out or from dust, dirt or insect damage. Fur vaults are specifically designed to protect the lasting quality of your fur, offering a temperature-, humidity- and light- controlled environment. Homes are not equipped to provide these combined conditions. When fur is not stored in a fur vault, the hair itself may appear fine but the natural oils of the leather may dry out. If the leather dries, rips and tears will begin to appear and these cannot be repaired adequately, nor can the oils be replaced. Annual fur storage is a necessary and inexpensive way to maintain the quality of your fur.
Fur cleaning and glazing
Furs should be cleaned once a year. They may not look dirty, but they need conditioning in order to keep them soft and fresh. Cleaning and glazing is a dry process. It cannot damage your fur, rather it enhances it. It will not shrink, discolor, or change the shape of your fur. When a fur is cleaned and glazed by an expert furrier, it will be softer and shinier, providing you with many years of fashionable wear.
10 EASY-CARE TIPS TO HELP PROTECT YOUR FUR
1. Always hang your fur on a broad-shouldered hanger, never on a wire hanger. Give your fur enough room in the closet so the fur is not crushed.
2. Never hang your fur in a plastic bag or rubber-lined bag. Plastic prevents air from circulating and can dry out the leather. When traveling, store your fur in a cloth garment bag provided by your furrier.
3. If your fur gets wet, shake it out and hang it to dry in a well-ventilated room. Keep it away from direct heat or a radiator, which can cause both fur and leather to dry out. After it is dry, shake it again. Most furs will take some rain and snow far better than a wool or other winter coat will. If the fur is soaked through, however, take it immediately to your fur retailer for proper treatment. Never comb or brush the fur.
4. Never pin jewelry on your fur. Do not use shoulder straps of a handbag on a consistent basis.
5. Never attempt to mothproof your fur yourself. Home treatments are no substitute for professional cleaning and storage.
6. Avoid spraying perfume or hairspray onto your fur.
7. Always store your fur during warm weather with your furrier - never at a dry cleaner. Your furrier is equipped with temperature, humidity and light-controlled storage facilities to protect fur.
8. Have fur cleaned annually by a fur specialist, definitely not a dry cleaner.
9. Have small rips or tears repaired immediately by your furrier. This will prevent more expensive repairs later.
10. Avoid leaving a fur hanging in a bright place. The light can cause the fur to oxidize or change color.
What is the difference between female and male mink coats?
Female mink is generally lighter in weight, softer and more supple than male mink. Additionally, female pelts have a high luster, are very silky and soft and are more adaptable to tailoring and draping. Male mink is often used to create a different fashion look and is also of excellent quality.
Always buy a fur from a reputable fur salon or fur retailer. In this way, you are assured of customer service, plus a variety of styles and price ranges from which to choose.
Always buy the best quality fur in your price range. Some factors that determine cost are fur quality, type of fur, craftsmanship, style and the designer name. Other factors include the length, size and sweep of the garment.
Yes. The warmth of the fur is determined by the underfur, which acts as insulation. Whether or not the guard hairs have been sheared, the underfur remains.
Yes, but in a very minimal way. The fur may not be quite as soft as it was in it's natural form.
A mild rain will not harm your fur. Just hang the garment to dry in a well ventilated room, away from direct heat. After it is dry, give the fur a vigorous shake. If your fur gets thoroughly soaked, bring it to your place of purchase immediately for proper treatment so that oils can be applied to the leather side of the fur to maintain its suppleness. In some cases, the silk lining may need to be replaced.
Shearling is natural lamb with the leather side often sueded and dyed colors. The sueded side is worn on the outside with the fur on the inside.
No. Warmth is determined by the dense underfur. The outer guard hairs give the various furs their individual characteristics.
If a fur has been cared for properly over the years (annual storage and cleaning) there are many options available. The style can be updated into a more modern silhouette. It can also be used as a liner by having an outer shell made in a fabric such as micro-fiber, cashmere or leather. You might consider using the fur as a trim on a wool coat, suit or sweater, Fur pillows will always add a luxurious accessory to a home.
You can feel proud to wear fur because it is a natural product and a responsible well-regulated industry. People have every right to appreciate the qualities of fine, natural products such as leather, wool, silk, down, shearling and fur.
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Why to wear fur ?
By Alexandra
Fur coats aren't just for special occasions. Today's fur fashions reflect tremendous variety in design and spirit. While full-length sables might fit some people's everyday needs, others might opt for a colorful sheared beaver bomber jacket, a fur-lined leather biker jacket or even a knee-length shearling fur duffel coat.
If you live in an urban area and would like to wear your fur just for great occasions, evening or tend to be doing a lot of walking then full length is desired. If you plan to wear often the coat or every days for work and you want something that you can be comfortable wearing in a car then a shorter length is preferred.
As far as fur type, there are so many to choose. If you think that this will be your one and only coat, mink or beaver would be the suggestion. You can wear it for formal occassions. If you are a young lady you might like more causual and sporty furs or if, like me, you prefer more classical and somptuous furs choose longer haired furs, such as fox, coyote or lynx. Nothing is more elegant, soft and glamour than a beautiful fox or lynx coat on a young lady.
Dressed up glamour is back on the map. This Hollywood inspired look include all of the classics such as chinchilla, sable, mink and fox.
Modern innovations include over-the-top-trims, lavish embroidery and embellished linings.
Boleros, coats and stoles play a leading role too in the great lady's quest for all out glamour.
The girl who just wants to have fun will go for a flirty fur with a strong dose of color.
Designers opt for rich and opulent hues ranging from a variety of greens and blues to a plush
palate of deep purples, pinks, reds and bordeaux. This look is best expressed in soft, feminine silhouettes from the world of couture dressing. Color lends a whimsical feel to fur as designers embrace a variety of new dying techniques including tip dying, surface dying, stone dying and even tie dying.
Lamb leads the color category with an emphasis on broadtail, swakara and Persian. Color also lends fantasy to shaved or sheared mink and beaver, rabbit, dyed fox and even plush chinchill
Higner priced and more luxurious furs will be sable, chinchilla or lynx. Medium priced are fox, coyote, beaver and raccoon. Lower priced are muskrat, nutria and rabbit.
Last thing, be sure to store and clean your fur every year, that will protect and give the fur many years of wear.
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FUR DESCRIPTIONS
By Stellabeli
Antelope
In antelope the skin should be supple, although
the hair tends to be stiff and flat. The color is usually light brown to gray,
depending on whether the antelope is from Africa or America. Because of the
stiffness and flatness of the hair, the hair may tend to rub off easily. As a
result, leather may be used for edging to protect sleeves, pockets, collars,
etc., from friction. Antelope is used in coats, jackets, vests, and accessories.
It is not a durable fur if worn steadily. At the same time, it's inexpensive and
attractive for casual wear.
Badger
Badger is long-haired and is generally used
unplucked, except for the grotzen (the long, mane-like guard hairs running down
the back), which is plucked. It's a wild fur, with the color varying, depending
on where the badger is from. The best badger has a natural silvery tint.
Canadian badger is gray with pale white underfur, while badger from the US has
gray guard hairs and creamy underfur. Asiatic (China) badger has a
yellowish-brown underfur and gray guard hair. North American badger is softer
and fuller than other badger. Badger is so durable that a coat can wear for
years, given good care and regular cleaning. Because badger is so heavy in
weight, it is often "leathered", that is, made with strips of badger alternating
with leather. Leathered badger is much lighter in weight but is not as durable.
Bassarisk
Bassarisk is a cousin of the raccoon, although it
is sometimes called ring-tailed cat. Before 1952, when the Federal Fur Products
Labeling Act became law, it was often called rock sable. Bassarisk is native to
North America and is trapped mainly in Texas. The fur is naturally a brownish
yellow in color, touched with gray. The best bassarisk has good yellow tones.
The belly and flank, often used by themselves in coats, are paler yellow and
shade to light brown, similar to fitch. Bassarisk may also be bleached or dyed.
It isn't a long-wearing fur, although it will give long wear with care.
Beaver
Beaver, which was once native to Europe, is now
found only in North America in quantity, despite beaver's beginning to make a
comeback in the former Soviet Union. It is an aquatic animal with shiny, coarse
guard hair and soft, exceptionally thick underfur. The color range is wide. It
may be dark brown on the back, shading to pale golden brown on the sides, or the
entire fur may be pale or even silvery. Whatever the color, beaver should never
have a red cast. The best beaver comes from Canada, the northern US, and Alaska.
Northern beaver wears longest.
Southern beaver has a thicker skin and is inexpensive in comparison to northern beaver. The fur texture is similar, although the underfur may not be as thick. Beaver is used both natural and plucked and sheared. Southern beaver is best when natural.
Natural beaver: Natural beaver doesn't resemble the sheared beaver with which most of us are familiar. The look is entirely different. Watch for long guard hairs that give the fur a lustrous sheen. Natural beaver is ideal for men's coats because of the rugged look. It also makes striking casual wear for both men and women. Natural beaver is a durable fur. Its natural brown color may be dyed other colors.
Sheared
beaver:
Beaver almost always used to be plucked and sheared to a velvety, soft pile. The
natural color is sometimes dyed darker brown or beige or even bleached white.
The fur may mat when wet and requires care and once-a-year cleaning.
Burunduki
Burunduki is a member of the chipmunk family, with short, coarse hair. The
background fur is gray with a yellow tint. Russian burunduki has five dark and
four light stripes, while Indian burunduki has three stripes. The pelts are so
small that they are generally sewn into plates, from which garments are made.
It's used for linings, skirts, and accessories, because the fur isn't durable
enough for outer coats.
Calf
Calf is produced from young domesticated cows. The short, sleek hair may be used
in natural colors, ranging from brown to black or tan and white. Calfskin may
also be dyed or stenciled in imitation of other furs. The leather is much softer
than antelope, although the short, stiff hairs will show wear, which means it's
often trimmed with leather. Calf is used for coats and sportswear.
Chinchilla
Chinchilla is a rodent, which originally was found in the wild only in the high
altitudes of the Andes in South America. The name comes from "Chincha", the
South American Indians who used the hair for cloth, as did the Incas who
conquered the Chinchas and the early Spaniards who defeated the Incas. Later,
the blue gray, exquisitely soft fur became so popular in Europe that chinchillas
were almost extinct by 1914. Nowadays, all chinchilla is ranched, as the result
of a few breeding pairs imported to the US in 1924. The fur is very soft, silky,
and dense, with silvery gray top hair and dark underfur. The best chinchilla has
a slate blue color, often enhanced by brighteners, although mutation colors are
now on the market. The small size and the fragility of the skin used to make
chinchilla difficult to work with and very expensive. It's still expensive, but
new dressing methods have made it easier to work with and have improved its
wearability. It needs care, however. The fur is very warm, despite being one of
the lightest in weight furs.
Coyote
Coyote is native to North America. It is a predator and, until a few years ago,
was considered a pest, since it may attack domestic and farm animals as well as
rats and other wild animals. (In fact, to decrease the large numbers of coyotes,
the states inhabited by coyote offered bounties for the skins, which were
considered useless.) Once wolves were put on the endangered species' list,
however, fur manufacturers began experimenting with coyote. The long-haired fur,
often pale gray or tan in color with thick, paler underfur, is durable and warm
and makes luxurious coats for both men and women.
Ermine
Ermine used to be the fur of royalty, for whom it was reserved as a symbol of
virtue and purity. Both the robes and crown that Elizabeth II wore for her
coronation were trimmed in ermine, although today anyone who can afford the fur
can wear ermine.
Ermine is
actually a weasel. The weasel itself is found in many countries and climates,
both in Europe and North America, but what we think of as ermine is found only
in the former Soviet Union and northern Canada. In summer, it is a brownish gray,
but as winter comes, it changes to a snowy white that again changes, in spring,
to a shade of yellow. Ermine, therefore, is trapped only in mid-winter to get
the prime, top-quality white color. Ermine is warm and will last many years,
since it is too dressy for everyday wear. It requires good care and should be
kept out of sunlight, which may turn it yellow. The best ermine is from the
former Soviet Union.
Fisher
Fisher is a marten, the American cousin of the Russian sable, the most
sought-after being the fisher from the western US and Canada. The fur ranges
from brown to black. The females, which are smaller than the males, have softer
and silkier pelts. The fur is very durable and is used for coats, "little" furs,
and scarves. In coats it may be let out, like mink. The best fisher is a
chocolate brown in color.
Fitch
Fitch comes in several natural colors. White fitch, which is native to Siberia,
has distinctive flank markings. It's the best fitch and is expensive. Fitch also
comes from Germany, Austria, and Poland. This fitch is dark in color, with the
best Polish fitch having distinctive stripes. Paradise or yellow fitch comes
from Mongolia. Although fitch used to be dyed to resemble mink and sable, as the
price has gone up, it has become valued for itself, with the best Russian white
fitch becoming more expensive than mink. It has long guard hairs and woolly,
compact underfur. In dark fitch, the underfur is lighter in color than the dark
guard hairs. Fitch can be worked many ways, both let out or in chevron and other
designs for coats and jackets. It is less durable than mink, but it will wear
well with care.
Fox
Fox, which comes in many natural colors, is found all over the world. Because of
its long hair and distinctive coloring, its popularity depends on fashion,
especially in the US. Fox is easy to ranch and was ranched extensively in the US
at the height of its popularity. As its popularity waned, however, American fox
farmers turned to raising mink, with the result that almost all fox today comes
from ranches in Scandinavia (especially Norway), other European countries, and
Russia, where it has always been fashionable. The ranching made possible the
development of mutations such as silver and platina fox, that are variations of
the natural colors.
Fox wears well, although it needs regular cleaning and care to keep the fur fluffy and the skins soft and supple. The price depends on the popularity, but red (the most common) fox is the least expensive, with platina and white the most expensive. Clarity of color is important in fox, as is the fullness and density of the underfur and soft sleekness of the guard hairs. Fox is also dyed high-fashion colors.
Blue fox: Blue fox is ranched extensively in Scandinavia. The color ranges from a blue brown to a real blue, as well as white with blue highlights.
Cross fox: The name comes from the distinctive cruciform marking in the head and neck region of the fox. The color is basically red fox with yellow tints, while the cross is deeper in color with the red mixed with black. Some cross foxes are silver in color and are called silver cross fox.
Gray fox: Most gray fox is American, with the best pelts coming from the northern states. It is silver gray with a slight tinge of red.
Kitt fox or corsac: North American kitt foxes are gray fox. In addition, there is corsac, which comes from Siberia and other places in the former Soviet Union. In comparison to other foxes, it has little guard hair. What guard hair it does have is yellow with white tips, although the fur tends to be short and soft. Corsac fox is less well-wearing than most other foxes.
Platina fox: The platina color was originally bred in Norway. It is a much lighter platinum color than silver fox, and the whiteness may be enhanced by slight bleaching.
Red fox: Red fox is native to every continent with the exception of South America. The best red fox comes from northern climates and is deeply furred with silky, strong texture.
Silver fox: Silver fox is entirely ranched. The fur is blue black in color with a white tip on the tail. The best silver fox is a true silver color with a black stripe.
White fox:
This fox has extremely thick underfur. There may be a slight blue shade along
the back of the pelt. Like all white furs, it may require bleaching to
preventing its turning yellow. It is less wearable than the more common kinds of
foxes, although it is the ultimate in glamor.
Guanaco (Guanaquito)
Guanaco is a South American relative of the camel. The pattern of the
long-haired back in red or brown and white flanks, or sides, is sharp. The fur
is thick and soft. Guanaco is used in coats and for trimmings and accessories.
It needs a lot of care, since the thick, soft fur (there are no guard hairs)
tends to curl when wet. If this happens, the fur should always be taken to a
furrier for special ironing. Anyone who tries to repair a fur coat in any way
runs the risk of ruining the fur.
Kidskin
Kidskin comes from young goats and mainly from Ethiopia and China. The fur is
short, flat, and silky with no underfur. The color may be gray, black, tan, or
white. It may be dyed, too. Kid sometimes has markings like broadtail - a moiré
or watered-silk pattern. Kidskin may be made into plates, from which garments
are made. It is not a durable fur, as is the case with most flat-haired furs.
Lamb
Lamb is one fur that cannot be described in a few words. It may be
long-haired or short-haired. It may be flat with a wavy pattern or curly. It may
be inexpensive to expensive. In addition, the fur industry is now using types of
lamb that were seldom, if ever, used before. Each type of fur, therefore, has
its own characteristics and colors, although almost all curly lamb is very
durable.
Broadtail: Broadtail is the most perishable and one of the most expensive kinds of lamb. It is best for a second fur. It is used in coats (usually very dressy) but, because of its thin, soft leather and fine short hair, it is also used in "fantasy furs". A broadtail evening suit, for example, would be the ultimate in broadtail - and fur - apparel and fashion. Broadtail comes from stillborn and unborn lambs of karakul sheep. The sheep aren't killed for their lambs, which is one reason broadtail is exclusive and expensive. Broadtail has a silky texture and fine moiré or watered-silk pattern. Natural gray broadtail wears the best, with natural brown broadtail wearing next best. Black broadtail is dyed, and, like all dyed furs, wears least well, as is the case with the high-fashion colors that broadtail can also be dyed.
Broadtail (American processed): American processed broadtail is made from pelts of a certain kind of lamb that have been sheared near the skin to give the distinctive moiré pattern of natural broadtail. It is more durable than broadtail, since the skins aren't as thin, and is less expensive. It may be left its natural color or dyed other colors. The shearing should be close enough to the skin that the moiré pattern doesn't have a curl.
Karakul: See Persian lamb.
Mongolian lamb: This lamb has long, wavy, silky hair. It is sporty and attractive in coats and jackets, but needs special care because it can turn frizzy in wet weather. It is usually left its natural "lamb" color (off-white) or is bleached white.
Mouton lamb: Mouton lamb is sheared sheepskin. The hair is straightened, treated, and set to make a soft, water-repellent, close fur that may be dyed black or brown to imitate Alaska or northern fur seal or beaver. It may also be dyed other colors, although the natural color is generally off-white.
Shearling: Shearling is natural sheepsking that has been sheared (similar to mouton lamb), while the leather side has been sueded. The fur, or sheared, side is worn next to the skin. Shearling is the shepherd's coat that's traditional to many eastern European and Asian countries from Hungary to Afghanistan and points east. These coats are often embroidered on the suede side, and the fur side may have longer hair. Shearlings are also "traditional" jackets for western cowboys and ranchers. The coats and jackets, made mainly in California, are casual, sporty, and long wearing, as well as inexpensive. The shearling side tends to be more closely sheared than on shepherds' coats. They do need care to keep the sueded side soft and clean and the lamb side from matting, although the best American shearlings will not spot from rain.
Persian lamb: Persian lamb is also called karakul, or caracul. It used to be called astrakhan as well. The sheep are raised for their meat and wool in the former Soviet Union, Afghanistan, and other countries in that area, but they are also raised in Namibia as well. Persian lamb from the last area listed is trademarked Swakara. Bukhara is the finest Russian Persian lamb. Broadtail is lamb that is stillborn or unborn. Persian broadtail is lamb that is a few days old or less. Persian lamb (karakul, Swakara, and Bukhara) is lamb that is not older than 10 days. The difference in age allows the fur to develop from the moiré pattern to a tight, close curl. After that age, the fur gets longer and begins to lose the distinctive curl. Persian lamb goes in and out of fashion in the United States, but it has long been one of the most popular furs in Europe, especially Germany. The best-wearing Persian lambs are the natural browns, grays, and whites. Black Persian lamb is dyed to avoid the whiteness of the natural leather from showing through the curls. Persian lamb today, thanks to better breeding, comes in a wider range of natural colors and is lighter in weight than even a few years ago.
Tibet lamb:
This lamb is similar to Mongolian lamb, except the silky hair is longer - as
long as three to four inches - and may be frizzier. It, too, is off-white,
although it can be dyed, and needs special care to keep it from frizzing
unattractively. Both Mongolian and Tibet lamb can be straightened if they become
too frizzy.
Lynx
Lynx is a long-haired fur that is light-colored with spotted, textured body
hair. It's native to parts of northern and central Europe, Canada, and the
United States, with the markings varying according to its native habitat. The
rarest lynx is the Russian white lynx, which is protected by the Russian
government. Only limited amounts of pelts are sold, accounting for its high
price tag. It's the only long-haired fur that won't shed. The fur is
exceptionally soft, and the markings are very subtle. Canadian lynx has less
subtle markings, while Montana lynx is more strongly marked. Bay lynx or bobcat
is much more strongly marked, with flatter hair, and is the least expensive kind
of lynx.
Marmot
Marmot is native to North America, Europe and Asia. The American marmot (better
known as woodchuck or groundhog) isn't used for fur. Marmot that is used for fur
comes from Russia and China. The hair tends to be coarse, although the guard
hairs are silky and the underfur is thick. It's bluish in color before
hibernation and yellowish afterwards. Although it may be used in its naturally
bluish color, it may also be dyed to resemble mink. Marmot is reasonably durable
and not expensive.
Marten
Marten belong to the weasel family, along with mink and sable. Russian marten,
in fact, are sable. The marten found in Canada are called Canadian sable. Marten
need care and treatment to wear well and stay fluffy. The types of marten called
marten are:
American marten: American marten have very long guard hairs and dense, fine underfur. The color ranges from blue brown to dark brown. It may also be pale brown or yellow with orange tones. The skins are worked many ways, including let out, and guard hairs may be plucked. American marten are the least expensive marten, since they are not as soft or fine as the other marten.
Baum marten: Baum marten are native to Europe, Asia Minor, and the Himalayas. They are naturally brown in color and may be dyed to resemble sable. As with all martens, they may be let out or used in various patterns for coats or be used for whole-skin scarves and "little" furs.
Stone marten:
Stone marten come from approximately the same places as baum marten, although
not as far north. The fur is similar but it is much finer than baum marten. The
best stone marten have a bluish cast to the fur; the underfur is whitish. They
are used in the same way as baum marten.
Mink
A
mink coat is the coat to many women - and to growing numbers of men. Mink
are a member of the weasel family. Although they are found in the wild almost
everywhere in North America and in some other parts of the world, the majority
of mink are ranched. Very few wild mink are trapped any more because ranched
mink are so superior in quality and color. American mink are the finest in the
world, thanks to scientific breeding and rearing.
Female mink are smaller and have softer, lighter pelts than the males. Consequently, more female skins are needed for a coat than male skins. It is just as warm, however, although the weight may be less.
Mink is worked in many ways, and every part of the skin is used. It is a very durable fur that can last twenty years or more with care, depending on the quality. Prime quality skins are used natural and will wear the best. Dyed mink represents lesser quality skins - and both the lesser quality and the dyeing mean that it won't wear as well.
Natural ranch mink: The guard hairs should be silky and even in length, while the underfur should be dense and compact and paler in color. The mink should have a naturally lustrous sheen.
Mutation mink: Again, the guard hairs should be silky and even in length. The color should be clear and uniform. The price depends on the availability - and popularity - of colors. At times, natural ranch mink may be more expensive.
Pieced mink:
A coat may be made, wholly or partially, of paws, gills and tails. It may also
contain other pieces of mink. If the coat is patterned, such as to give a
chevron effect, look for evenness of pattern and texture throughout the coat.
Pieced coats may not wear as well as whole skin coats, because of the many
seams. A good pieced mink coat should be reinforced on the leather side with
nylon or ribbon at points of wear. Pieced mink coats can be very attractive, and
they are much less expensive than natural mink coats that are let out or
skin-on-skin.
Mole
Mole is an example of how an animal considered to be a pest can turn out to have
value. According to tradition, moles in Scotland were creating havoc among the
farmers until Queen Alexandra, wife of Edward VII of England, ordered a garment
made of mole - and started a new fashion. Mole, which comes from Europe, has a
small, even tiny, pelt. The taupe gray pelts are sewn together and dyed for
exotic, special "fantasy furs". The leather is very soft, while the fur is short
and delicate, resembling velvet in texture. All fur, with the exception of mole,
grows from the head of the animal running back to the tail and should always be
touched that way. Mole, on the other hand, has no "grain"; it feels the same
whichever way it's touched, making it unique among furs.
Muskrat (Musquash)
Musquash is the Canadian and British name for muskrat, one of the most versatile
furs. It can be used many ways, including being dyed to resemble mink and
plucked and sheared to resemble beaver. Hudson seal, which is no longer made but
was popular in the 1920s and 1930s, was actually plucked and sheared muskrat
dyed to look like Alaska, or northern, fur seal. The name muskrat comes from
glands near the tail that give off an odor, musk.
Musk is used in perfumes
and cosmetics. Muskrat are found all over the United States, mainly in marsh
areas that are unsuitable for agriculture. It is extremely hardy and prolific,
which means that it would become a pest if not trapped. At times, in fact, it
has become so numerous that it's left the marshes for farmlands where it's
caused severe damage. Its color, in general, is dark brown on the back shading
to golden brown and silver on the flanks. Jersey, or eastern, muskrat is darker
in color, almost black, and the most expensive. Eastern muskrat is long-wearing
with care, although all muskrat wears well.
Nutria
Nutria is a
South American cousin of the beaver. It was introduced into swamps in the United
States to reduce the muskrat population. It was also farmed, and, according to
one story, a few breeding pairs escaped from a farm in Louisiana during a
hurricane, only to find the marshes and swamps there ideal. Whatever the reason,
since its introduction into the United States in the 1950s, nutria have thrived.
If not trapped, they could become a pest in competition for the same land with
muskrats and other wildlife.
Nutria has traditionally been plucked, sheared, and dyed a variety of colors from black, brown and beige to many others. Sheared nutria is soft and light in weight, making it ideal for use in vests, linings, and "indoor furs", as well as luxury coats.
Some innovative furriers have also tried using nutria natural, unplucked and unsheared. This natural nutria has thick, glossy guard hair, a light brown color shading to a yellowish red brown, and dense underfur. The best nutria is a rich brown. Natural nutria is also dyed.
All nutria is very warm
and wears well, although sheared nutria needs special care - as does any sheared
fur - and should always be stored in the summer. It is lighter weight than
beaver, whether sheared or natural, but similar in texture and color.
Opossum
Opossum are an
example of an animal used for fur whose fur varies widely depending on what part
of the world it comes from. Americans usually think of opossum as a long-haired,
small animal that's a kind of dull, silvery gray and has a hairless tail. If
it's threatened, it plays "possum" - goes limp and seems lifeless. Not all
opossum is "possum", however.
American opossum: American opossum has long, silvery gray guard hairs and a thick white underfur with black tips. The hair should be silky and thick and the color good. American opossum can last up to ten years. It may be tinted and dyed or plucked and sheared.
Australian opossum: The fur of this opossum is like thick plush. It's silkier than American opossum, with the best fur being a rich blue gray in color, although it can be bleached or dyed. It can also be sheared. Australian opossum is the best-wearing opossum, lasting as long as fifteen years.
Tasmanian opossum:
This opossum, from the island off Australia, is protected. It's similar to
Australian opossum, except that the color is a red brown and it will last only
five to eight years, making it the most perishable opossum.
Otter
While some
species of otter are endangered, other species are not. The otter used for fur
nowadays are American and Canadian inland otter. Like most aquatic animals, it
has a sleek, flat, lustrous fur with dense underfur. Its natural color is brown,
and it wears well. Otter may be left natural or plucked and sheared, giving it a
variety of looks. Otter, because of its sturdy wear and good looks, makes
attractive sports furs and appeals to men as well as women.
Pahmi
(Asian ferret badger)
This small
badger comes from China and India. Its guard hair, which ranges from brown to
silver gray, is much darker than the dense orange yellow underfur. It may be
used natural or plucked and sheared and wears well. A disadvantage is that pahmi,
when wet, has an odor like skunk.
Pony
Pony used for
fur comes from wild ponies, mostly from the former USSR and Poland. Other pony
comes from Siberia, Mongolia, Denmark, and South America. The best pony may have
a moiré pattern similar to broadtail, in which case the pattern should be
uniform. Pony is usually dyed. It wears similarly to calf and antelope because
of the flat, stiff hairs, and softness of leather is important for this reason.
Rabbit
Rabbit is noted
for being very inexpensive. It's also noted as being the great imitator, because
of its use to imitate just about any other fur. Both wild and domestic rabbits
are used, although most rabbit fur today comes from animals raised for food
purposes, the skins of which would be thrown out if not used for fur.
Rabbit may be left natural or it may be plucked, sheared, dyed, and processed in the effort to make it resemble other furs. As a result, it used to be called a wide variety of names, from lapin (the French word for rabbit) to sealine, beaverette, chinchillette, and so on. Since the Federal Fur Protection Act of 1952, however, it must be called rabbit, now matter how it's processed.
Long-haired rabbit tends
to shed. Thus, anyone who wears dark colors would be better off with a darker
color or dyed rabbit than with a white or light-colored rabbit coat or jacket.
In any case, the texture should be silky and the color uniform. Some rabbit is
leather-edged to give it a longer life. Although rabbit may wear as long as five
years or more, the average rabbit coat or jacket probably wears about three
years. Keeping in mind that a rabbit coat may cost less than a cloth coat,
though, it gives good value for the money.
Raccoon
Raccoon is a
truly American animal and fur, and it's come a long way from the enormous, heavy
coats that were a "must" for the 1920s college man and the Davy Crockett hats of
the 1950s. Raccoon are found all over the United States and in southern Canada,
with its fur getting thicker and longer the farther north the animal lives.
Although the distinctive tail alternates black with tan rings, the body guard
hairs are long and silvery with black tips and the gray sides shade to black
along the middle of the back. The best raccoon has plentiful guard hair, heavy
underfur, and a silvery color. If raccoon is plucked and sheared, the texture
should be silky and the shearing even. Sheared raccoon, as is true of any
sheared coat, needs special care to keep it from matting. Raccoon can also be
bleached or dyed. The fur can be very durable with care, as the number of
raccoon coats from the 1920s that were around a few years ago (and may even
still be around) demonstrate.
One day raccoon may not be
truly American. Pairs have been resettled in Russian forests where they're said
to be growing in number.
Sable
Sable are
actually marten - the finest, most luxurious and expensive marten. The best
sable comes from Barguzin in the former USSR and is denser and silkier than
Canadian sable, while Chinese and Japanese sable deserve only a mention in the
same sentence with Russian sable. Most sable are wild and protected in preserves,
although some sable have been and are ranched, which means that other countries
could raise sable if the Russians would let breeding pairs be exported. Unlike
Americans, who sold breeding pairs of mink freely, the Russians have strictly
controlled sable.
The Russian government has a monopoly on sable. V/O Sojuzpushnina, a Russian trade organization, holds fur auctions in January, July and October, at which sables (and other furs) are auctioned. The proceeds go to the government. This system is little different from the system in czarist times when a good portion of the imperial family's income came from the sale of sable, except that the royal family sold sable only to other crowned heads. The finest sable, Barguzin sable, was reserved for the czar and his family's use, which is why it's called crown or imperial sable.
Sable may also be the Golden Fleece of Greek mythology. According to one story, the fleece that Jason and his Argonauts sought when they sailed east - probably to the Black Sea - could have been sable.
Today, anyone who can
afford sable can own a sable coat. Prime sable is deeply furred with even,
silvery-tipped guard hairs, making it silkier than mink. The color is a rich
brown with a blue cast. Golden sable, which is a reddish or amber color, is less
expensive. All sable, nevertheless, is very expensive - but as warm and light in
weight as it is heavy in price.
Seal
There are more
than ninety different kinds of seal. The most important to the fur industry is
Alaska, or northern fur seal. Hair seal from Greenland is used, but mainly for
sportswear. These two are the only kinds of seal used in the United States by
the American fur industry. The pelts, moreover, come only from mature animals;
the baby harp seals, whose slaughter in Newfoundland and Greenland has been so
controversial, are not used in the United States for any purpose, either
for fur or leather. The pelts, however, are used in Canada and Europe, for
leather as much as for fur.
Alaska, or northern, fur seal: This seal is a perfect example of how an endangered species can be revived through good conservation and animal management to the point that its numbers are so large that, without hunting, it could overwhelm its environment. Like sable in Russia, Alaskan seal is controlled by the government, in this case the United States government. The seals are caught under the auspices of the government; the pelts are processed by one company under contract to the government and are auctioned by that same company. The proceeds go mainly to the government. The reason for the government's use of only one company is that seal is extremely difficult to process, and no other company can meet the standards. Seal is the most processed fur, requiring 129 steps from the point of tanning the pelt, to plucking the guard hairs and shearing, to rubbing the dye into the pelt by hand. Alaska seal is always plucked and sheared because of the very coarse guard hairs. The texture is very soft, like velvet, which allows it to be draped in the same way as cloth. It's always dyed, too, with the dark brown seal called Matara. Despite the dyeing, however, it's one of the most durable furs, wearing eighteen to twenty years with care.
Hair seal:
This seal from Greenland has no underfur, only short, shiny hair. The natural
colors are gray or spotted, and it may be dyed. Hair seal is the longest wearing
of the flat furs, making it much more durable than calf or antelope, for example.
Skunk
(Zorina)
Skunk are
native to North and South America. Both continents produce similar animals,
although South American skunk may be called Zorina. Skunk, with its distinctive
white striping down the back and dark or black color, is probably familiar to
most Americans especially for the evil-smelling spray they issue when threatened
and when killed on the roads by cars. The stripe varies in width but is actually
divided like a V and may be long or short. Some skunk fur may even be all black.
The underfur is thick and long, keeping the silky guard hairs erect. It's worked
both with and without the stripe. The color should be a glossy blue black and
the stripe, if used, narrow. It wears well. The problem with skunk has been that
it may have a slight odor when wet. Nowadays, this problem has been almost
eliminated.
Squirrel
Squirrels are
native to most countries. The best squirrel for fur purposes comes from Siberia.
It is blue gray in color and is left natural. This gray squirrel is the miniver
of the Middle Ages, when it was a status symbol worn only by the aristocracy and
high-ranking dignitaries. Siberian squirrel is also dyed, as is other squirrel
which tends to have an unattractive brown color. Brown squirrel comes from
Canada. Squirrels from the United States aren't used for fur. The fur should be
soft and silky, as well as dense in texture. A squirrel coat or jacket may wear
eight years or more, with stoles, capes, and other little furs that aren't worn
every day wearing much longer with care.
Tanuki
(Raccoon dog)
Tanuki, which
come from Japan, are sometimes called Jap cross fox, although they are not
really foxes. Actually, they belong to the raccoon family. The color is similar
to a genuine cross fox, however, with the same distinctive cross marking. As a
result it may be dyed to look like cross fox, although tanuki, or Japanese
raccoon, is also valued for its own unique beauty.
Weasel
Weasels are
native to many countries. The color varies, depending on season and country of
origin. Weasel is similar to mink, to which it's related, except that the hair
is shorter. The fur is soft and light in weight. The yellow and light colors may
be left natural, or the pelt may be dyed. Despite the resemblance to mink,
weasel wears nowhere near as long, only about five to eight years.
Wolverine
Wolverine is
native to the northern United States, Canada, and the cold belt of Europe. The
underfur is thick and brown, with the guard hair varying from dark brown to
yellowish, with a white stripe along the sides. It's usually used natural and is
rarely dyed, so a wolverine jacket should have dense underfur and an attractive
striped pattern. It's also often used to trim hoods on jackets and parkas
because the fur doesn't hold moisture and freeze against the face.
-----------------------------------------
Give your furs a long and happy life
By Alexandra
Given the right attention, your fur coat will make you look gorgeous for decades.
Furs like cold, hate heat. They don't like friction. They don't like chemicals. They like space. They like to be cleaned often, but only by a fur professional
Periodic cleaning and glazing of a worn fur is desirable, but not so if infrequently worn.
Also remember that proper humidity in keeping the fur from drying out is more important than pure coldness in storage.
If the leather becomes too dry it gets brittle and the garment will begin to fall apart.
At that point the garment cannot be repaired. Cool room temperature with a moderate humidity of 65% would be adequate for summer storage.
Worn furs should be cleaned and glazed every 2 years.
Glazing adds lanolin to the fur which helps keep the leather from drying out.
Furs are cleaned by a chemical compound mixed with a specific grade of sawdust.
Depending upon the type of fur, a hand rubbing with this cleaning material may be done first,but than all furs are usually placed inside of large revolving drums with some compound and revolved for a while.
This process gently absorbs odors, dirt, loose hairs, etc, whilst fluffing the fur and putting life back into it so to speak. Glazing is done next, usually as a seperate process, but sometimes included during the cleaning. By the way, furs are always tumbled together and not one at a time. As someone else stated, this protects the leather from drying out,
AND IS ABSOLUTELY VITAL IF YOU DO NOT WANT YOUR FUR TO LITERALLY FALL APART
Also don’t forget than, a good furrier will check for any stains, seam separations, matted areas that need attention, etc., which are also all vital areas to look out for to give your furs a long and happy life.
Given the right attention, your fur coat will make you look gorgeous for decades. Unless you have a very delicate fur like chinchilla, your fur coat is a fairly durable item and must simply be treated with common sense. Furs like cold, hate heat. They don't like friction. They don't like chemicals. They like space. They like to be cleaned often, but only by a fur professional.
1. Always hang your fur garment on a broad shouldered hanger. Give the fur enough room in the closet so the fur isn't crushed.
2. Never store a fur in plastic bag.
3. If fur gets wet, shake it out and hang it up to dry in a place where air circulates.
4. Never leave a fur near heat.
5. Never, never comb or brush fur.
6. Never mothproof a fur.
7. Store your fur during the warm season. Modern storage vaults are temperature and humidity controlled to protect them.
8. Have furs cleaned regularly by a fur specialist, not a dry cleaner.
9. Have any small rips or tears repaired immediately by a professional furrier.
10. Avoid leaving fur hanging in a bright place. The light can cause the fur to oxidize or change color.
11. Insure your fur on your homeowner's policy for its replacement value, so you won't be heartbroken in case of theft. Furriers usually offer nominal insurance coverage while your coat is in storage and sometimes make further coverage available for a small fee.
12. Avoid insecticides, mothproofing and other chemicals around on your fur, including perfume or hairspray directly on your fur. Perfume contains alcohol, which can dry your pelts. Once a perfume gets into your fur -- including cedar from a cedar chest -- it could be there to stay. Oils in the leather of your fur can become rancid and smell.